How to connect two routers on the same network step by step

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If you're experiencing Wi-Fi loss in certain rooms at home or in the office, or if you've run out of free network ports, you've probably wondered how to connect two routers to the same network without causing problems . The good news is that it can be done, it's quite flexible, and with a little planning, it can make your network much more stable than before.

Throughout this guide we will look in detail at all the ways to take advantage of one or more routers on the same connection : what you need, what limitations there are, how to configure them step by step, what to consider if the equipment is old, how to avoid performance problems (double NAT, duplicate IPs, WiFi interference…) and what simpler alternatives exist if you don't want to get so bogged down in the details.

Does it make sense to use two routers on the same network?

Before you start running cables like there's no tomorrow, it's worth asking yourself if you really need two routers connected at the same time . In many typical homes, a single, well-placed router or a quality Wi-Fi repeater might be enough. But there are several scenarios where adding a second device is a very good idea.

For example, when the Wi-Fi signal doesn't reach certain areas and "dead zones" appear , where coverage is minimal or nonexistent. Also, if the main router already has all its LAN ports occupied and you want to add new wired devices (desktop PCs, Smart TVs, game consoles, NAS, etc.). Or if you need to segment the network for guests, IoT, or work, without mixing it with your personal network.

Furthermore, there are situations where other options (cheap repeaters, low-quality powerline adapters, weak mesh systems) don't provide the stability you need, leaving you no choice but to use a second, properly configured wired router. Even if your internet service provider only allows one router connected to the ONT or fiber optic wall socket, you can still connect additional routers behind the main one.

However, it's important to understand that you can't simply plug two routers directly into the same fiber optic line or ONT . Your internet provider expects only one router to be connected to the internet. All other routers will need to connect to the first one via Ethernet (LAN to LAN or LAN to WAN) or, in some cases, via Wi-Fi if they support WDS or repeater mode.

Devices you can use to extend the network

To improve coverage and add ports, you don't have to buy a new, expensive router. Often you can reuse hardware you already have at home or combine it with other network devices.

First, you can use an old ADSL router as a secondary router . Most can be configured as an access point or, at least, as a "switch + Wi-Fi" if you disable DHCP and connect it to the main router via LAN. The downside is that many of these models are limited to Fast Ethernet, meaning a maximum of 100 Mbps on the LAN , which will restrict the entire network connected to it.

Another common option is to use a modern fiber optic router as a secondary device . These usually include Gigabit Ethernet ports, allowing you to take advantage of connections of up to 1 Gbps between your devices and to the internet, provided your internet plan allows it. This is the best option if you're going to be handling a lot of data traffic (4K streaming, online gaming, backups, NAS storage, etc.).

You can also use PLC adapters if you don't want to or can't run a long Ethernet cable between routers. Instead of a direct network cable, you connect one PLC to the main router and another to the secondary router, and the data travels through your home's electrical wiring . It's crucial that the PLCs support a speed compatible with your internet connection to avoid creating bottlenecks.

Which router is best as a secondary router?

The second router doesn't need to be a special or top-of-the-line model; almost any standard router can serve as a secondary router if it offers the appropriate configuration options. However, there are some important nuances.

Many routers have a specific Access Point or Bridge mode . In these modes, the router disables features like NAT and the DHCP server and behaves more like a Wi-Fi switch: it simply forwards traffic to the main router. Whenever possible, this is the cleanest and simplest option.

If your old router doesn't have AP mode, you can usually simulate that behavior by disabling its DHCP server and connecting a LAN port to the main router's LAN port . In that case, the first router will manage the internal IP address at all times, and the secondary router will only extend ports and Wi-Fi.

However, if the secondary router is very old, it may lack modern security features (WPA2/WPA3 encryption, a decent firewall, recent firmware updates) . Furthermore, many older devices don't exceed 100 Mbps or lack the power to handle many simultaneous connections, high-quality streaming, or demanding online games.

There are quite a few affordable routers on the market that are already equipped to support standard fiber optic speeds , with dual-band Wi-Fi, MU-MIMO, Wi-Fi 5 or Wi-Fi 6, etc. It's usually worth investing a little in quality hardware to avoid frequent crashes, performance loss, or a short lifespan.

Key performance aspects when using two routers

When you decide to set up more than one router on the same network, it's not enough to just plug them in and be done with it; there are several technical points that directly affect the performance, stability, and latency of the connection.

The first is the infamous double NAT . This occurs when each router performs its own Network Address Translation (NAT) and DHCP assignment, resulting in a layered network: one network behind another. This can cause problems with online gaming, P2P services, home servers, or port forwarding . Ideally, this should be avoided by configuring the second router in bridge or access point mode, or with a LAN-to-LAN configuration with DHCP disabled on the secondary router.

Another important issue is how you configure your Wi-Fi networks (SSIDs) and channels . If you use the same network name and password on both routers, your devices will be able to seamlessly switch between them as you move around your home. However, it's crucial that the channels don't overlap on the same band , or that you allow the routers to automatically select the least congested channel to reduce interference.

The physical location of each router also matters a great deal. If you place them too close together, their Wi-Fi signals will overlap and interfere with each other. If you keep them further apart and place them in open areas, you'll get more consistent coverage and less interference . Try not to put them inside closed cabinets or against thick walls or metal.

Finally, each router must be properly configured and updated : firmware up to date, reasonable firewall rules, bandwidth and QoS well adjusted if you use them, disabling features you don't need to avoid overloading the equipment.

Precautions if you are going to use an old router

Reusing that router you had forgotten in a drawer is tempting, but before putting it on the network it's a good idea to do a quick check to avoid introducing a weak link that lowers the level of security or performance.

First, check if the manufacturer still offers firmware updates for that model or if it's compatible with alternative firmwares like OpenWrt or DD-WRT. Modern firmware can fix security vulnerabilities, improve stability, and add features such as VPN, guest networks, or better bandwidth management.

It's also vital that you immediately change the default passwords , both for accessing the router's control panel and for the Wi-Fi networks it broadcasts. Even if it's a secondary device, if someone gains access through it, they can compromise your entire network.

If you don't need to access your router remotely, disable remote access to the administration interface . Many older models have insecure services exposed to the internet, making them easy targets for automated attacks.

Within the limits of your firmware, make sure you have the strongest security options enabled : WPA2 or WPA3 on WiFi, firewall in good working order, disable services you don't use (WPS, UPnP if you don't need it, unnecessary servers, etc.).

And as a general rule of thumb, if you're going to perform sensitive operations such as online payments or handling sensitive data , it's best to do so connected to a current and well-maintained main router, not an old, unsupported device that may have unpatched vulnerabilities.

Analyze your needs before touching anything.

Before you rush out to buy routers, powerline adapters, or meters of cable, it's worth taking a moment to understand why your current network isn't working as it should . Sometimes the problem is location, other times it's Wi-Fi congestion, and other times it's simply that the router provided by your internet service provider is too limited.

Consider whether your main problem is wireless coverage (areas where the signal is almost nonexistent), whether it's more the actual speed (you're not taking full advantage of your fiber optic connection's Mbps), whether you lack LAN ports , or whether you want to separate networks (work, guests, home automation). It's like asking yourself if you need a new lamp or just a new light bulb.

In many cases, simply moving the main router to a more central position, raising it, or using a WiFi signal booster can gain several meters of good WiFi coverage. In others, a modern WiFi Mesh system can solve the problem more easily than struggling with multiple traditional routers.

Also keep in mind that if you end up cascading two or more routers without proper configuration, you could worsen the experience : dropouts, double NAT, devices that can't see each other, unstable WiFi... Hence the importance of carefully analyzing your starting point and choosing the solution that best suits your specific needs.

Plan the installation and wiring

Once you've decided to add a second router, it's time to plan how you're going to physically connect it. The most stable, fastest, and recommended method is to link both routers with an Ethernet cable , even if it means running meters of cable through your house.

If your home has internal cable conduits , it's best to use them. You'll need to calculate the cable's route to buy the correct length and get RJ45 connectors and a crimping tool to terminate the cables properly. A cable puller is a great tool for threading the cable through the conduits without any trouble.

If you don't have conduit available, you can staple the cable to the wall or use cable trunking . In this case, it's also advisable to carefully measure the distance between the main and secondary routers, always leaving a few centimeters of slack at each end so you can move the equipment around without the cable being taut.

A basic tip: it's better to have a little extra cable than not enough. If you leave it too short, any change of location or simple handling can stress the RJ45 connectors and shorten the lifespan of the installation.

Speed, compatibility, and network card

Another key factor is the maximum speed supported by both your routers and the devices that will connect. An older ADSL router with Fast Ethernet ports will be limited to 100 Mbps on the LAN; if your fiber optic connection is 300, 600, or 1.000 Mbps, that part of the network will be capped.

Modern fiber optic routers , on the other hand, typically offer Gigabit Ethernet ports . If your internet plan is up to 1 Gbps and you connect a secondary router with Gigabit ports and a good cable, you'll be able to take full advantage of the available speed, both for internet access and for internal traffic between devices.

Also make sure that the WiFi standards of both routers are compatible

On desktop and laptop computers, check which Ethernet network card they have. Gigabit Ethernet has been the standard for years, but it never hurts to double-check in Device Manager or the adapter's properties. If your card only negotiates at 100 Mbps, it won't help if the router and cable are Gigabit. You can always install a USB network adapter if your computer is older or lacks a physical RJ45 port.

Which network cable to use between the routers

The cable you use to connect routers or PCs, powerline adapters, and other equipment directly affects the quality of your connection. Each category indicates the maximum speed and frequency it can handle.

For older equipment or networks that won't exceed 100 Mbps, a basic CAT5 cable may work . But if you want to take advantage of a fiber optic router and modern computers, it's recommended to use at least CAT5E or CAT6 , which can easily reach 1 Gbps.

A cable inferior to CAT5E limits the speed to a maximum of 100 Mbps . Starting with CAT5E, you can reach 1 Gbps, and with higher categories (CAT6A, CAT7), even 10 Gbps at moderate distances, in addition to better resistance to noise and interference.

The great advantage of connecting two routers by Ethernet cable versus doing so by WiFi is that you can take advantage of virtually all the bandwidth of your connection, with much less latency and without the typical losses of the wireless medium.

Cost, budget and simple alternatives

Before rushing to the store to buy a top-of-the-line router, carefully consider your budget and what you really need. There's no point in buying an oversized router if you're not going to use its advanced features or power.

Compare models from different brands, check if they have access point mode, gigabit ports, dual-band Wi-Fi, and good firmware support , and adjust your purchase to your actual needs. Sometimes a well-chosen low-to-mid-range model is more than enough.

If you're just looking to extend your Wi-Fi coverage a bit without significantly altering your network , a decent Wi-Fi repeater or a couple of powerline adapters with built-in Wi-Fi might be a better option. Every situation is different; if you're unsure, seeking advice from someone with experience could save you money and headaches.

There's also the option of updating the firmware of an older router to improve its performance and security. Third-party firmwares like OpenWrt or DD-WRT offer extra features (VPN, advanced QoS, guest networks, better routing table control, etc.), but keep in mind that they may void the warranty and require more technical knowledge to configure correctly.

Typical connection scheme: main router and secondary router

In most home installations, you will have a main router connected to the fiber or ADSL (directly to the ONT or integrated) and one or more secondary routers connected by cable to expand ports and coverage.

We'll assign an internal IP address like 192.168.1.1 to the main router and leave its DHCP server enabled to distribute addresses to all devices, for example, from 192.168.1.3 onwards. This router is responsible for internet access, managing NAT, the firewall, and everything else.

The secondary router will have a static IP address on the same network, for example 192.168.1.2 , but outside the DHCP range assigned by the primary router . On this second router, we will disable the DHCP server to avoid conflicts, and all devices connected to it will receive their IP address and network configuration directly from the primary router.

A possible setup would be: main router 192.168.1.1, secondary router 192.168.1.2, PC1 with IP 192.168.1.3 connected to the first, and PC2 with IP 192.168.1.4 connected to the second. This way, they are all on the same subnet and can see each other without any problems.

Correct cable and port placement

The physical setup is simpler than it seems, but everything needs to be connected correctly. The main router connects to the telephone socket or the fiber optic ONT : this can be done via RJ11 cable (ADSL) or RJ45 cable (fiber optic to a WAN or LAN port configured as WAN).

From there, to connect two routers on the same stable network, the usual approach is a LAN-to-LAN connection . This means running an Ethernet cable from a LAN port on the main router to one of the LAN ports on the secondary router, without using the WAN port on the second device.

Next, connect your PCs and other devices in whatever way suits you best: PC1 to the main router via LAN , PC2 to the secondary router, Smart TV to either one, etc. As long as they are all on the same IP range and the main router's DHCP is active, it will function as a single network.

Please note that if your fiber router uses a specific LAN port as its WAN port (for example, LAN1), you will need to use that port to connect the ONT. The remaining LAN ports are free for cables to the secondary router or to your devices.

Configuration of the primary and secondary routers

From a PC connected to the main router, the first step is to find out its gateway IP address . On Windows, you can open CMD and run ipconfig /all to see which address appears as the default gateway (usually 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1).

On the main router, which will already be working if you browse the Internet, you will reinforce its role as a neutral router in a multi-user setup : DHCP server enabled, NAT and firewall working, and, if you want, you will define the range of IPs that it will distribute so that it leaves some fixed addresses free for routers and special equipment.

On the secondary router, the basic steps are always the same: delete old port forwarding rules that might cause problems, change its LAN IP to a static one in the same range as the main router (for example, 192.168.1.2), and disable the DHCP server so that it does not compete with the one on the main router.

From that point on, when you want to access the secondary router's control panel, you'll have to do so using its new IP address (for example, 192.168.1.2). From there, you can manage its Wi-Fi, change passwords, update firmware, etc., but the internal network will still be controlled by the router that provides internet access.

Regarding Wi-Fi, a good practice is to use the same network name and password on both routers , so your devices will automatically switch to the access point with the best signal as you move around. If you do this, make sure the channels on each router don't overlap to minimize interference.

PC configuration and port forwarding

In many cases, you won't need to touch anything on the computers: as long as they have IP address assignment set to automatic, they'll receive their configuration from the main router's DHCP server , and that's it. However, if you need to open ports for a specific PC, it's often best to assign it a static IP address.

In Windows 10 or 11 you can go to the network adapter properties, enter Internet Protocol version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and set an IP address, mask (usually 255.255.255.0), gateway (IP of the main router) and DNS (these can be those of the operator or public services such as Google, Cloudflare or Quad9).

When there are two or more routers chained together doing NAT, port forwarding becomes complicated , because you have to open the port on the main router to the secondary router and from the secondary router to the PC, or activate UPnP throughout the chain, which doesn't always work well and isn't recommended for security reasons.

Therefore, for services that require open ports (servers, games, remote access, etc.) to function correctly, it's best to avoid double NAT and configure the second router as an access point , or strictly use a LAN-to-LAN configuration without using its WAN port. This way, there's only one point where port forwarding needs to be managed: the main router.

Connect two routers via WiFi (repeater mode / WDS)

It's also possible to connect routers wirelessly, without an Ethernet cable , using systems like WDS (Wireless Distribution System) or the repeater mode available on some models. However, this solution typically has worse performance, more interference, and higher latency than a wired connection.

First, you need to check if your secondary router supports wireless repeater mode, WDS, or something similar . Not all devices include this feature, and many older ADSL routers are not compatible across different brands.

If it supports it, you'll need to gather information from the main router: SSID (network name), encryption type, and password . It's also advisable to reset the secondary router to factory settings to avoid carrying over old configurations that could cause problems.

Once you're logged into its web interface (via Wi-Fi or Ethernet), look for the repeater mode or WDS option , scan for networks, select the main router's network, enter the password, and save the settings. Optionally, you can keep the same SSID or use a different one, such as "NetworkName_EXT".

Location is crucial: the repeater router should be placed where it still receives a good signal from the main router, but closer to the area with poor coverage . If you put it right in the "dead zone," it won't have enough signal to repeat.

Even when properly configured, a Wi-Fi repeater typically offers half the effective bandwidth and more speed fluctuations than a wired connection. Therefore, if you can afford to run an Ethernet cable or use a high-quality powerline adapter (PLC), the experience is usually much better.

Advantages of connecting two well-configured routers

When done properly, connecting two routers to the same network offers clear benefits in both coverage and flexibility . The most obvious is the ability to cover areas with Wi-Fi where the signal previously didn't reach, eliminating dead zones and improving stability.

It also allows you to segment your network : you can dedicate a router or subnet to guests, another to IoT devices (light bulbs, plugs, cameras, etc.), and keep your main network cleaner and more secure. This makes it easy to apply specific firewall rules and limit what each group of devices sees.

By choosing the right equipment and configuration, you can optimize bandwidth allocation , prioritizing critical traffic (remote work, video conferencing, gaming) over secondary downloads. Many modern routers offer advanced QoS for this purpose.

Furthermore, you gain physical flexibility: the secondary router can act as a multi-port LAN switch in another room and, incidentally, provide a powerful new Wi-Fi access point in that area. For large or multi-story homes, this makes all the difference.

This entire setup takes some time, but once configured and tested, you can enjoy a more stable, faster, and well-organized network , even in homes with complicated layouts or many connected devices.

Ultimately, if you choose the secondary router wisely (or reuse an old one sensibly), plan the cabling minimally, and avoid typical errors like double NAT or IP conflicts, connecting two routers on the same network becomes a very powerful solution to improve your home internet without having to completely change the provider's installation.